Day 5 - Pailheres

Team Bike 2009 (116 of 382)
Originally uploaded by M.J.S.

We try and get more food for breakfast (a pile of toasted tartines suggested that our host is running low on du pain) and roll out. My clothes are still damp, despite drying all night (and nearly braking a leg putting them in the drying area).

A good ride along a valley, then up through the heat. The first climb is relatively minor, and I even get out of the saddle, then roll along at a good pace. It's like riding in Normandy, with stunning views. A long, sweeping descent, then a fast train, thanks to Will (who rode all the way from Saint Malo) into Aix-les-Thermes. It is hot, and we set off in ones and twos up Pailheres.

I ride with Sean for a bit, who goes ahead after 20 mins, and is almost hit by a car from behind.

I climb for an hour. It gets hard again, but I know I can do it. The worst are the ski stations, with wide, steep roads. I can't see the summit. It gets very hot. I worry about not enough block; later I get red lines below my shorts and sleeves as I'm wearing different tops, and on my ear despite revolving my condor hat to keep the heat off. I keep climbing. The trees have long gone. There are no springs to cool off in. Barham does wonderful work in the van, giving crisps, sports drink, and then a quick shove up the hill.

A final ski station - this is not the end, then a final 10% 2km climb. They are mostly all up. Lying around. Will has bonked. We eat, climb on the hut, take photos. Try and warm up, then descend.

I have to stop to take a photo. The sun picks up the rocks in the valley, and the road sweeps down in switchbacks. Team Bikes is spread along the road, heading down, faster and faster.

We assemble and ride though a long gorge. I even go with the break, and take a short turn at the front. Finally, the kind of riding I can do. We assemble, and ride the last 30km along the river in a long snake at 30-40kmh. The road is a fitting end. A points it is blown straight through the limestone cliffs, with overhangs, a rugged river and steep white walls. We really are in the Midi.

Finally, we arrive in Limoux. 374 miles. A small stumble by someone on a bollard, lots of traffic, and a slightly rundown town. The hotel is not friendly, and demands cash up front. We suddenly all see females for the first time in 5 days.

Then, beers, a great meal nearby, with local Mauzac wines, and into town. We find the Place de la Republique and the barmaids agree to stay open. Some of us want to go jock and do shots, others are more circumspect. We relax and chat and drink, and then it is 2 am. Carcassonne by taxi is suggested. Rejecting this madcap scheme, most of us turn in. We hear more about this in the morning.